Most full-size induction cooktops need their own dedicated circuit, commonly rated around 32 amps, hard-wired by a licensed electrician with an isolating switch nearby and RCD protection at the switchboard. The exact rating comes from the cooktop's installation manual. Small portable units can run from a standard 10 amp power point, but a built-in cooktop cannot.
How much power does an induction cooktop need?
A built-in induction cooktop is one of the largest single loads in a home, with a nameplate rating that commonly falls between about 7 and 11 kilowatts. That rating assumes every zone is running flat out on boost at once, which rarely happens in real cooking. Even so, the electrician sizes the circuit to the manufacturer's specification.
For comparison, a standard 10 amp power point supplies about 2.4 kilowatts. That is why a four-zone cooktop cannot simply plug into the wall, and why the electrical work is usually the first thing to sort out when you plan the change.
Some cooktops have a power management setting. The installer can cap the total draw so the cooktop suits a smaller existing circuit, at the cost of slower heating when several zones are on together. Whether that is available, and how low it can go, depends entirely on the model.
What circuit does an induction cooktop need?
A built-in induction cooktop normally needs a dedicated circuit, which means a circuit of its own from the switchboard that feeds nothing else. Our guide to what a dedicated circuit is explains why large appliances are kept off the shared power point circuits. In practice the cooktop circuit includes:
- A circuit breaker matched to the cooktop's rating, commonly 32 amps for a full-size unit, though the manual may specify less or more.
- Cable sized for that breaker and for the length of the run, which is heavier than the cable feeding your bedroom power points.
- RCD protection. New circuits in NSW homes must be protected by a safety switch, either an RCD covering the circuit or a combined RCBO.
- An isolating switch near the cooktop, usually on the wall or inside an adjacent cupboard, so it can be turned off without going to the switchboard.
The cooktop is then hard-wired to that circuit, normally through a connection point under the bench. The isolating switch is the same kind of device covered in our guide to isolator switches.
Which types of induction cooktop need which supply?
The size and style of the cooktop decides the supply, and the table below shows the typical pattern. Treat it as a general guide only. The installation manual for your specific model is the document your electrician works from.
| Cooktop type | Typical supply | Usual electrical work |
|---|---|---|
| Portable one or two zone unit | Standard 10 amp power point | None, beyond a suitable outlet that is not shared with a kettle or toaster |
| Plug-in cooktop with a 15 amp plug | 15 amp power point on its own circuit | A new 15 amp outlet and circuit, since the wide earth pin will not fit a 10 amp outlet |
| 60cm four zone, power limited | Dedicated circuit, often 20 to 25 amps | Hard-wiring, isolating switch, and confirming the limit setting with the manual |
| 60cm four zone, full power | Dedicated circuit, commonly 32 amps | New or upgraded circuit, hard-wiring, isolating switch, RCD protection |
| 90cm or five zone | Dedicated circuit, commonly 32 amps or more | As above, with a closer look at the switchboard and main supply |
If a cooktop arrives with a wide-pin plug, our guide to the 15 amp power point explains why it needs a different outlet.
Can you plug in an induction cooktop?
Only small portable units and some lower-powered models are made to plug in, and a standard four-zone built-in cooktop is not one of them. A portable induction plate on a 10 amp plug is fine on a normal power point, as long as that outlet is not also running a kettle, toaster or air fryer. Built-in cooktops are designed to be hard-wired. Fitting a plug to one, or running it through an extension lead or power board, overloads the outlet and the cable behind it, and it is not a compliant installation.
What changes when you switch from gas to induction?
A gas kitchen usually has no cooking circuit at all, so the switch to induction almost always means running a new circuit from the switchboard to the kitchen. How involved that is depends on the house:
- Cable route. The electrician needs a path from the switchboard to the kitchen through the roof space, subfloor or walls. Single storey homes with roof access are usually simplest.
- Room on the switchboard. The new circuit needs a free space for its breaker and RCD protection. An older board with ceramic fuses or no spare room may need work first.
- Main supply headroom. The cooktop adds a large load on top of everything else, so it is worth checking the supply before you buy.
- The gas side. Capping or removing the gas line to the old cooktop is a job for a licensed gasfitter, not an electrician, so book both trades.
If you already have an electric ceramic or coil cooktop, the existing circuit may be fine for the new one. It depends on its rating and on whether the old cooktop shared a circuit with the oven, which was common in older kitchens. Your electrician checks the breaker, cable and connection before reusing it.
Planning the move from gas to induction?
DM Electrical runs dedicated cooktop circuits, fits isolating switches and checks your switchboard has room before the new cooktop arrives. Based in Brookvale, Level 1 and Level 2 ASP accredited, working across the Northern Beaches and wider Sydney.
Will an induction cooktop need a switchboard upgrade?
Not always, but an induction cooktop is often the load that shows up the limits of an older switchboard. The common reasons an upgrade comes into the job are a board with no spare space, old ceramic fuses that cannot take modern RCD protection, or a board already crowded with circuits for air conditioning, hot water and a pool. Our switchboard upgrade page explains what a modern board includes.
In some homes the main supply matters more than the board. Most Sydney houses are single-phase. An induction cooktop on its own is usually manageable, but add an EV charger, ducted air conditioning and a heat pump hot water system and single-phase can run short of headroom. Our guide on whether your home needs three-phase power covers how that decision is made.
Who can install an induction cooktop in NSW?
Hard-wiring a cooktop and running its circuit is electrical wiring work, so in NSW it must be done by a licensed electrician. That includes the final connection under the bench, even when the circuit is already there. When the job is finished, the electrician lodges a Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work, which our guide to the CCEW certificate explains. Keep a copy with your appliance warranty, since manufacturers can ask for proof of a licensed installation before honouring a claim.
In a kitchen renovation, the best time for the circuit is at rough-in, before the walls are lined and the cabinets go in. Choose the cooktop early so the electrician can size the circuit from its manual rather than guessing. Our residential electrician team works with builders and kitchen companies on that timing.
Frequently asked questions
Can I install an induction cooktop myself?
No. In NSW, hard-wiring a cooktop and running or altering its circuit is electrical wiring work that must be done by a licensed electrician, who then lodges a Certificate of Compliance for Electrical Work.
Can an induction cooktop run on a 20 amp circuit?
Some can, if the model has a power management setting that caps its total draw to suit the circuit. A full-power four or five zone cooktop usually needs a larger circuit, commonly 32 amps, so check the installation manual first.
Can I use my old electric cooktop circuit for a new induction cooktop?
Often, yes, if the existing circuit is rated for what the new cooktop needs and does not also feed the oven. An electrician checks the breaker, cable and connection before reusing it.
Does an induction cooktop need an isolating switch?
A hard-wired cooktop normally has an isolating switch nearby, so it can be turned off for cleaning, servicing or replacement without going to the switchboard.
The bottom line
A built-in induction cooktop needs a dedicated, RCD-protected circuit sized to its installation manual, commonly 32 amps, plus an isolating switch and a licensed installation. Coming from gas, that usually means a new circuit and a check of the switchboard and supply. Pick the model first, then get in touch and we will confirm what your kitchen needs.